Light Bite
I have saved you the trouble of trying macaroons at Ladurée or Fortnum and Mason by testing them myself. Go straight to Pierre Hermé. Do not pass “Go” and do not collect £200.
Tasting Menu
Belgravia is a place of old money and embassies, with a shopping street incorporating a Louboutin boutique and a “floral couturier”. It is luxury village and therefore unsurprising that Pierre Hermé, dubbed by French Vogue as “the Picasso of pastry”, has opened his only standalone store in London here.
Those who read my blog regularly will know that I favour savoury tang over saccharine sweetness but in the interests of thoroughness I thought I had better try a full selection of Hermé’s exquisite creations. Don’t say I never do anything for you. I was lured into the shop by a colourful window display of baked beauties and did not escape without purchasing 9, count them, 9, macaroons. They were so pretty and chic all laid out before me, and the service so enthusiastic and helpful I found myself drawn in to the world of couture pastry.
Hermé is best known for his macaroons, which blend unusual flavour combinations from nature. I started my taste odyssey with some of the most popular contenders from the limited edition “gardens” range. These seasonal treats were created to celebrate the nearby Chelsea Flower Show and were, naturally, floral based. The rose and ambergris combo was a subtle nod to the flower, not artificial or overly strong as it could have been. The controversial ambergris lent a musky element but I couldn’t help thinking the same effect could have been achieved with a less dramatic ingredient.
The classic salted caramel flavour was dark and rich, with an almost coffee-like intensity.
The passion fruit, rhubarb and strawberry macaroon proved a zingy delight as waves of the three distinct flavours washed over me. And the psychedelic colours amused me in the chic and discreet haven of SW1.
The vanilla and caramel flavours of the Crème Brûlée came through subtly but distinctively, but left a rather sweet aftertaste. I think this is a flavour to enjoy with a strong espresso to counteract the sugar, but the liberal sprinkling of vanilla seeds did enhance the experience.
The standout flavour of this group for me was the green olive and vanilla. It was a revelation to me, with distinctive fruity notes of olive oil and generous hunks of green olive which enhanced the taste and texture sensations. The vanilla notes could have been toned down to make a bolder savoury statement, but this is a macaroon I have been dreaming of since I tried it.
Hermé’s macaroons are more generous and oozing than other brands and have soft gooey centres. The new “velouté” collection, however, are yoghurt filled and offer a squishier texture. They are fantastic, due to an impressive lingering taste that is both tart and sweet. This range is not for you if you like subtle romantic flavours. The lime zest was tangy with a citrus zing and packed quite the punch.
The raspberry macaroon was a deep pink hue and tasted sharp yet rich. My greedy bites revealed a fat freeze dried raspberry concealed inside the yoghurt filling, which added to the taste and texture.
I didn’t think I would find a flavour more delicious than the raspberry until I tried the original combination of apple, mint, cucumber and rocket. Refreshing and light, it would be ideally paired with a gin and tonic.
Hermé’s signature flavouring is rose, lychee, and raspberry; likened to a Chanel suit as it is classic that is a sure fire hit every season. Whilst the lychee flavour may have been too subtle for my taste, there was a satisfyingly fresh hit of rose, far superior to its rose and ambergris sibling, and another hidden raspberry jewel within. This is a macaroon I could eat by the boxful.
Hermé is a master of his craft and his flavour combinations are constantly evolving, making it very difficult to pass by his mecca to macaroons without purchase. My advice is to give in to the urge.
Cuisine: Pastry palace
Address: 13 Lowndes Street, Belgravia, SW1X 9EX
Telephone: 020 7245 0317
Website: http://www.pierreherme.com
Price: £1.85 per macaroon
Nearest station: Knightsbridge or Hyde Park Corner