Tags
Bray, Classic, Date Night, french, michelin, Roux, traditional
Light Bite
Like Mary Poppins the Waterside Inn is practically perfect in every way, but somehow a little charmless.
Tasting Menu
The Waterside Inn comes to us courtesy of the legendary Roux dynasty who are also responsible for the sublime Le Gavroche which hosts many of my special occasions.This 3* grande dame of the culinary world is unchanged since it opened in 1972, which is a testament to its quality but also results in a décor that looks like an homage to a 1980s conservatory and dishes that are not as cutting edge as they could be.
But let us start at the beginning, a very good place to start. We drove from London during lashing rain which clogged up the motorway and made us late. We are never late and it stressed me out. It did not have any effect on the professional and understanding staff of the Waterside Inn, however, and we were afforded a warm welcome by the hatted valet who parked the car for us and the beaming reception staff. Suddenly things did not seem so bad after all and we were grateful to be ushered towards the bar and an awesome selection of canapés.
Whilst the restaurant appears to be a strange blend of Marie Antoinette’s bedroom and traditional country cottage, the view was pretty and relaxing even on a day of thunderous weather.
As we settled into our seats we were offered a selection of warm bread in a plaited basket which set the tone for this old fashioned but sweet restaurant. I am doubtless the only person to describe a restaurant at the top of the Michelin starred tree as sweet, but it reminded me of a classy old aunt who smelt of lavender but never had a hair out of place.
We chose the “Menu Exceptionnel” and I was suitably impressed by the light and flavoursome first course of flaked Devon crab and marinated seabass served on a ginger-infused carrot jelly and topped off with a generous dollop of Oscietra caviar. The zingy jelly surrounded perfectly fresh, and satisfyingly shell-free, crabmeat, and the caviar acted as a seasoning for the delicate seabass. The accompanying coconut and carrot madeleine was delicious and the dish a great success.
Next up was a pan-fried lobe of foie gras with capers and croutons and caramelized blood orange. I am unashamed of my politically incorrect adoration of foie gras but this generously proportioned offering was far too greasy, even though I realise it is essentially a slab of fat in itself. The dish was too rich for me but the orange provided a good foil and the seemingly incongruous beansprouts added a crunchy texture.
Infinitely more palatable was the fish course comprising delicately poached fillets of sole stuffed with morels, served with crayfish tails and “vin jaune” sauce. The fish was perfectly cooked and the meaty morels and spinach lent an earthy tone. Overall the dish was a super example of the skill and old-school perfection of Alain Roux and his brigade.
The main course was a celebration of baby vegetables and soft milk lamb served with a minted hollandaise that was so unctuous I ordered an extra portion. The sauce arrived after a little wait, obviously freshly prepared for greedy me, and was a delight poured over the leek fondue and turned turnips.
A dinky little lime blossom and elderflower sorbet provided the perfect palate cleanser and left me fully prepared to take on pudding.
The Araguani chocolate cannelé was filled with a light chocolate mousse and surrounded by pineapple compote, fresh pineapple carpaccio and a faultlessly smooth run and raisin ice cream. It felt like a deconstructed piña colada and I liked it.
The meal was rounded off with an earthy rhubarb soufflé enhanced with raspberries that was truly superlative.
After several hours of gluttonous munching we were exhausted and retired to the sitting area for coffee and mignardises. The selection was enormous and each little morsel more delicate than the last. The palmier was delicious, as was the raspberry financier and lemon madeleine. The passion fruit tart sported the thinnest pastry I have ever seen and was light and sublime. The lemon and ginger macaroon was chewy and wonderful, and although the blackcurrant pâte de fruit was truly vile it was the only thing I was served all day that I really didn’t enjoy. The sweetness of the pastries was offset by a superb blend of coffee, but frustratingly no one seemed to know where it came from.
Overall it is difficult to fault the technical skills or professional service at the Waterside Inn, but at these prices I require a “wow” factor as well.
Cuisine: Classic French fine dining
Address: Ferry Road, Bray, Berkshire, SL6 2AT
Telephone: 01628 620 691
Website: www.waterside-inn.co.uk
Price: £370 for lunch for 2 people including booze
Nearest station: Maidenhead